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Swapping the Sea for the Mountains: Life in Almaty Through the Eyes of Aktau Natives

For several years now, the media space has been discussing the difference in living conditions between Kazakhstan's regions and its major cities, Astana and Almaty. Young students and professionals are leaving their hometowns in pursuit of big dreams and goals. The Voice Media author Dinara Sarbasova moved from Aktau to Almaty three years ago and is ready to share how life in a metropolis feels after years of living in a regional town.

Today, life in small towns differs significantly from the fast-paced life in big cities. Regions are often overlooked, prompting residents to move to major urban centers in search of new opportunities. Aktau is a port city in western Kazakhstan situated on the coast of the Caspian Sea. It is quite small—its entire area is comparable to just a single district in Almaty. Because of this, building a new life from scratch in a metropolis can be challenging for those who have spent years living in Aktau.
New opportunities
The first and most obvious reason people move from the regions to big cities is for new opportunities. This directly applies to young people. High school graduates can spend years preparing to get into the country’s top universities, which are located in major metropolises. Like many of my classmates, after graduating from high school, I enrolled in an Almaty university. It seemed to me that it would be easier to realize oneself professionally in Almaty—here, major Kazakhstani and even international companies offer young specialists internship programs and future employment opportunities.

A bigger city means bigger opportunities. Over my three years of living here, I have participated in several professional courses that boosted my value as a literature and linguistics specialist. In Aktau, however, major opportunities are mostly limited to a narrow group of professionals: sailors and oil workers. Among the students at the Yessenov University of Technology and Engineering in Aktau, it is common to meet those who moved to the port city from other regions specifically to pursue an education in the petroleum field.
Leisure
In Aktau, almost all leisure activities revolve around the Caspian Sea. This isn't a downside—few cities are located on the coast and offer swimming or weekend boat rides. In my childhood, our family would gather for out-of-town picnics to swim in the sea and eat fresh watermelon on the soft sand. As I grew up, I spent every evening walking along the embankment with friends. And this isn't just my experience—many of my peers from Aktau would agree.

Since our school days, my friend Ayagoz and I dreamed of moving to Almaty. We used to stroll along the waterfront and plan what we would do in the big city. After living in Almaty for a few years, she shared with me how she now views spending leisure time in Aktau:

"— So many young people want to leave because there’s nothing to do in Aktau. Every place where we spent our time had already been walked up and down by our teachers and parents. It's funny to realize that."

There are other entertainment options that can generally be found in all regional centers: cinemas, museums, libraries, and a theater. However, in Almaty, they reach a completely different level. My classmate Tleuzhan mentioned that people who grew up in a small city like Aktau might even feel overwhelmed by the variety of leisure activities at first.

"— I lived in Aktau for seven years, from 2014 to 2021. Then I moved to Almaty to go to university. I didn't face difficulties with assimilation, but I think that's just my personality—I had already moved several times before. Still, I assume there can be challenges for people moving from a small town to Almaty. I know people who simply got lost here. You can understand them: the city is huge, and the rhythm of life is completely different. When you have too many choices, you just feel lost."
Infrastructure
Unfortunately, many today would agree that major cities are far better developed and maintained than the regions. When I arrived in Almaty, I was amazed by the abundance of pedestrian streets, parks, and bike lanes. Tleuzhan shared this same surprise.

"— Back in Aktau, we used to walk in Shevchenko Park by the sea. But after coming to Almaty, I realized that wasn't really a park at all. Real parks are in Almaty, whereas in Aktau, they are more like alleys."

Aktau is characterized by an arid climate, and experts have been discussing its gradual desertification for several years. Summers there are extremely hot—during the day, residents avoid going outside for fear of heatstroke. Tall, lush trees were the very first thing I noticed when I arrived in Almaty with my older sister, Nigina. Although the infrastructure here is more developed, she prefers the small scale of Aktau over the metropolis:

"— In Aktau, of course, there is less greenery. But I like that transport in Almaty is very well developed—you can conveniently move around the city using buses, trolleybuses, and even the metro. That’s essential for a big city. Aktau, on the other hand, is smaller, which makes it more comfortable for my lifestyle. It’s quiet, and you can live a calm life here."

The first and most obvious reason people move from the regions to big cities is for new opportunities. This directly applies to young people. High school graduates can spend years preparing to get into the country’s top universities, which are located in major metropolises. Like many of my classmates, after graduating from high school, I enrolled in an Almaty university. It seemed to me that it would be easier to realize oneself professionally in Almaty—here, major Kazakhstani and even international companies offer young specialists internship programs and future employment opportunities.

A bigger city means bigger opportunities. Over my three years of living here, I have participated in several professional courses that boosted my value as a literature and linguistics specialist. In Aktau, however, major opportunities are mostly limited to a narrow group of professionals: sailors and oil workers. Among the students at the Yessenov University of Technology and Engineering in Aktau, it is common to meet those who moved to the port city from other regions specifically to pursue an education in the petroleum field.
People
Many of my acquaintances from Aktau who also moved to Almaty often talk about being misunderstood by others. In other cities, stereotypes about Aktau residents persist: people tend to view us as rougher and more straightforward. On top of that, challenges arise from the differences in Kazakh language dialects. I spoke with Ayagoz about dialectal differences and assimilation:

"— In reality, it is easier to assimilate in Almaty. It’s harder to do so in Aktau, especially if you don't speak Kazakh at a proficient level. At the same time, the dialects differ significantly. For instance, I don't fully understand the southern dialect, which sometimes makes it difficult for me to communicate with relatives here."
"— Back when I still lived in Aktau (four years ago — Ed. note), people who looked different, had colorful hair, or wore unconventional styles weren't really welcomed. What I liked about Almaty is that you can choose any social circle that interests you.

I also discussed making connections with Tleuzhan. During our conversation, he shared an interesting thought about how friends from small towns can hold a special kind of value:

"— I noticed long ago that when there isn't much to do in a city, you pay much more attention to people. In Almaty, if there's an interesting spot, you don't really care who you go with. In Aktau, on the other hand, you make friends because the people themselves are interesting.

In recent years, Aktau has been developing rapidly. When choosing a vacation destination, Kazakhstanis are increasingly opting for this small city on the coast of the Caspian Sea, as it earns a reputation as one of the country's top travel destinations. However, growing up and spending your formative years there is a unique experience—one that continues to bind me and my friends together years later in the vastness of Almaty.