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Kazakhstan Theatre Guide: Highlights
Kazakhstan Theatre Guide: Highlights
Playwright, theatre critic, and author of the "Olya Takes You to the Theatre" Telegram channel, Olga Malysheva, traveled across five regions of the country this spring to watch local productions. Here are her recommendations on where to find compelling, relevant theatre in Kazakhstan beyond Astana and Almaty.
"Traveling across the country to explore theatre in smaller towns has been a dream of mine for the past eight years. Back in 2018, I served as curator for the Kazakhstan showcase at the Otqrovenie Independent Festival in Almaty, which compiled the best local and notable international productions over five seasons from 2013 to 2018. Together with festival producer Olga Sultanova, we made a point to look beyond Almaty and Astana to regional centers. Even then, fascinating developments were taking place in the theatres of Central, Northern, and Western Kazakhstan. Today, this is unmistakably a trend: young directors and arts managers are increasingly choosing to work in smaller cities where there is greater freedom and opportunity due to less competition.
Late last year, I conceived the 'Tut Theatre' ('Theatre is Here') project: a series of trips across Kazakh cities. The itinerary covered five towns, starting in late March and concluding at the end of May. Over this period, I published 18 pieces on my Telegram channel, including interviews, longreads, and reviews dedicated to regional theatres. I visited Kokshetau, Karaganda, Temirtau, Aktobe, and Zhezkazgan, and I want to share why domestic 'theatre tourism' in our country is not only viable, but deeply engaging.
While this is by no means an exhaustive list of Kazakhstan's theatrical hubs, I can say with confidence about each of these cities: there is plenty worth seeing here."
"Traveling across the country to explore theatre in smaller towns has been a dream of mine for the past eight years. Back in 2018, I served as curator for the Kazakhstan showcase at the Otqrovenie Independent Festival in Almaty, which compiled the best local and notable international productions over five seasons from 2013 to 2018. Together with festival producer Olga Sultanova, we made a point to look beyond Almaty and Astana to regional centers. Even then, fascinating developments were taking place in the theatres of Central, Northern, and Western Kazakhstan. Today, this is unmistakably a trend: young directors and arts managers are increasingly choosing to work in smaller cities where there is greater freedom and opportunity due to less competition.
Late last year, I conceived the 'Tut Theatre' ('Theatre is Here') project: a series of trips across Kazakh cities. The itinerary covered five towns, starting in late March and concluding at the end of May. Over this period, I published 18 pieces on my Telegram channel, including interviews, longreads, and reviews dedicated to regional theatres. I visited Kokshetau, Karaganda, Temirtau, Aktobe, and Zhezkazgan, and I want to share why domestic 'theatre tourism' in our country is not only viable, but deeply engaging.
While this is by no means an exhaustive list of Kazakhstan's theatrical hubs, I can say with confidence about each of these cities: there is plenty worth seeing here."
Kokshetau
You can reach Kokshetau from Almaty by plane: there are direct flights on Fridays and Sundays, making it perfect for a quick weekend getaway. The regional center is 300 kilometers from the capital—a taxi is faster, but train is also an option, taking 4–5 hours on virtually any train running north-south across the country.
Kokshetau is a cozy, compact, bright city with low-rise buildings (a welcome relief for the eyes after high-density capital high-rises) and sweeping winds. It features a lake right in the city center and incredibly fresh air.
I traveled here for a unique theatrical phenomenon: operating inside a state institution—the Akmola Regional Russian Drama Theatre—is the independent production project Beisal. Its producer, who also serves as director of the theatre, is Beibit Salauat. Two years ago, he invited seven graduates from the national university of arts to join the theatre and outfitted a chamber venue for them in the basement. Today, it operates as an experimental stage, a true underground space, with a repertoire featuring several productions that have already successfully toured national and international festivals.
A key hallmark of the theatre is its strong acting company and regular invitations to guest directors from Almaty, Astana, and abroad. For instance, during my visit, a production team from Georgia was working at the theatre.
Quote: "Creatively, Kazakhstani theatre still needs to undergo reforms and carve out its own path. We have our own cultural nuances and mindset, and I believe something entirely new and unique will emerge from that. Good local directors and playwrights will rise. Right now, we must bring them in and provide work so they can grow. Let it be an experiment, but let it be ours and modern."
— Beibit Salauat, Director of the Akmola Regional Drama Theatre
What to watch: "The Fierce One" (Liotyi), "The Lonesome West", "Hellados".
You can reach Kokshetau from Almaty by plane: there are direct flights on Fridays and Sundays, making it perfect for a quick weekend getaway. The regional center is 300 kilometers from the capital—a taxi is faster, but train is also an option, taking 4–5 hours on virtually any train running north-south across the country.
Kokshetau is a cozy, compact, bright city with low-rise buildings (a welcome relief for the eyes after high-density capital high-rises) and sweeping winds. It features a lake right in the city center and incredibly fresh air.
I traveled here for a unique theatrical phenomenon: operating inside a state institution—the Akmola Regional Russian Drama Theatre—is the independent production project Beisal. Its producer, who also serves as director of the theatre, is Beibit Salauat. Two years ago, he invited seven graduates from the national university of arts to join the theatre and outfitted a chamber venue for them in the basement. Today, it operates as an experimental stage, a true underground space, with a repertoire featuring several productions that have already successfully toured national and international festivals.
A key hallmark of the theatre is its strong acting company and regular invitations to guest directors from Almaty, Astana, and abroad. For instance, during my visit, a production team from Georgia was working at the theatre.
Quote: "Creatively, Kazakhstani theatre still needs to undergo reforms and carve out its own path. We have our own cultural nuances and mindset, and I believe something entirely new and unique will emerge from that. Good local directors and playwrights will rise. Right now, we must bring them in and provide work so they can grow. Let it be an experiment, but let it be ours and modern."
— Beibit Salauat, Director of the Akmola Regional Drama Theatre
What to watch: "The Fierce One" (Liotyi), "The Lonesome West", "Hellados".
Karaganda
I usually prefer taking the train from Almaty to Karaganda: a comfortable overnight sleeper journey, and you arrive right in town. Direct flights are available as well, though the schedule isn't always convenient, and the airport is located 30 kilometers outside the city center. From Astana, Karaganda is easily accessible by bus, commuter train, long-distance train, or taxi, sitting just over 200 kilometers away.
Karaganda boasts three state theatres—a high concentration by Kazakhstan's standards. Furthermore, each troupe has its own dedicated building, whereas regional centers often require two or three companies to share a single stage.
My primary focus here was the Saken Seifullin Kazakh Drama Theatre, particularly its artistic director, Aydyn Salban. Salban belongs to a wave of young directors I classify as "philosophical": he excels at reinterpreting classical Kazakh literature, continuously finding ways to bridge deep traditions with contemporary theatrical language.
Aydyn Salban and theatre director Qurman Qalymov form a dynamic, new-wave leadership team. Entrusting major regional theatres to young managers and visionary directors is not yet standard practice across the country, but experience proves it is remarkably effective—these are precisely the venues drawing public attention.
A defining feature of the theatre is its magnificent, modern facility in the heart of the city, which was the first purpose-built theatre building constructed in independent Kazakhstan.
Quote: "Saying 'theatre educates' sounds so grand and lofty. At the end of the day, a play is directed by an individual, not 'the theatre.' How can a single director educate an entire region or a whole nation? To me, that idea seems almost ironic. Rather than trying to educate, perhaps we should simply reflect the viewer back to themselves. People come to the theatre to see who they are. Theatre reflects real life—and the more grounded in reality it is, the more powerful it becomes."
— Aydyn Salban, Artistic Director of the Seifullin Drama Theatre
What to watch: "Tekebūrqaq", "Atau-Kere".
Temirtau
If Karaganda is part of your theatrical itinerary, be sure to drop by Temirtau. This compact industrial town is just a 30-minute drive from the regional center. While its atmosphere is completely distinct from the near-metropolitan scale of neighboring Karaganda (which is approaching a population of one million), it boasts a remarkably strong theatre scene.
The Temirtau Theatre for Children and Young People (TYUZ) was founded in 1990 and has experienced a genuine renaissance over the past decade. First, it stands as the sole venue across the vast Central Kazakhstan region dedicated to building a robust repertoire tailored specifically to children, teenagers, and young adults. Second, the company places immense emphasis on audience engagement and community building.
The venue actively participates in national and international festivals and remains one of the rare regional institutions to host regular dramatic readings of contemporary plays by both Kazakhstani and international authors. They also host interactive "food-theatre" gatherings where actors and spectators cook together, converse, and share a meal. These events regularly draw visitors from Karaganda—in fact, the theatre enjoys a dedicated fanbase in the neighboring city.
A hallmark feature of the institution is its introduction of Central Kazakhstan’s first regional black-box chamber stage. This versatile, adaptable space accommodates experimental theatrical forms, script readings, and film screenings alike.
Quote: "When we first launched our community initiatives, there were so many of them that people didn't quite grasp why we were doing all this extra work. At times, it felt like no one needed it. But over time, it proved invaluable. So much of what we bring to the stage is fresh for local audiences—people often tell us, 'Wow, that was incredible, we've never experienced anything like this before.'"
— Ekaterina Avdyukova, Head of Literary Department, Temirtau TYUZ
What to watch: "Re: Oblomov", "That Very Day", "Waffle Hearts".
If Karaganda is part of your theatrical itinerary, be sure to drop by Temirtau. This compact industrial town is just a 30-minute drive from the regional center. While its atmosphere is completely distinct from the near-metropolitan scale of neighboring Karaganda (which is approaching a population of one million), it boasts a remarkably strong theatre scene.
The Temirtau Theatre for Children and Young People (TYUZ) was founded in 1990 and has experienced a genuine renaissance over the past decade. First, it stands as the sole venue across the vast Central Kazakhstan region dedicated to building a robust repertoire tailored specifically to children, teenagers, and young adults. Second, the company places immense emphasis on audience engagement and community building.
The venue actively participates in national and international festivals and remains one of the rare regional institutions to host regular dramatic readings of contemporary plays by both Kazakhstani and international authors. They also host interactive "food-theatre" gatherings where actors and spectators cook together, converse, and share a meal. These events regularly draw visitors from Karaganda—in fact, the theatre enjoys a dedicated fanbase in the neighboring city.
A hallmark feature of the institution is its introduction of Central Kazakhstan’s first regional black-box chamber stage. This versatile, adaptable space accommodates experimental theatrical forms, script readings, and film screenings alike.
Quote: "When we first launched our community initiatives, there were so many of them that people didn't quite grasp why we were doing all this extra work. At times, it felt like no one needed it. But over time, it proved invaluable. So much of what we bring to the stage is fresh for local audiences—people often tell us, 'Wow, that was incredible, we've never experienced anything like this before.'"
— Ekaterina Avdyukova, Head of Literary Department, Temirtau TYUZ
What to watch: "Re: Oblomov", "That Very Day", "Waffle Hearts".
Aktobe
Following last year's administrative redistricting, Aktobe Region became the largest in the country. Direct daily flights connect Aktobe with both Almaty and Astana, making travel here straightforward.
Beyond being famous for the finest chocolate-covered zhent, Aktobe is home to two prominent cultural institutions: the Akhtanov Drama Theatre and the Alaqai Puppet Theatre.
The Akhtanov Drama Theatre stands as the sole drama venue for the entire expanse of the region. It houses two distinct troupes—Kazakh and Russian—who share the main stage on an alternating schedule. The primary draw for my trip, however, was an innovative experimental initiative operating within this state institution: project Tekemet. Formed by the theatre's artistic director, Meyram Khabibullin, Tekemet is an energetic collective of young actors and musicians.
Over its first year, Tekemet has built a remarkably diverse portfolio. Their theatrical roster includes the immersive production "Khanshaiym" and the photographic performance "Ūnsızdık", with a new play, "Äiel", currently in preparation. Their creative footprint extends beyond the stage to independent films, musical projects, and music videos.
A key feature of the institution is hosting the Balausa International Festival of Experimental Theatre—the only festival of its kind in Kazakhstan—which has been based at the Akhtanov Theatre for six years.
Quote: "Theatre as a whole is undergoing a transformation, and these changes are for the better. I believe a new wave is rising right now, though it isn't us. In time, this wave will sweep across all of Kazakhstani theatre. Our generation is simply the wind creating that wave. The generation that follows us will have a clear, established path along which they will elevate Kazakh theatre."
— Meyram Khabibullin, Artistic Director of the Akhtanov Drama Theatre
What to watch: "Hamlet", "Ūnsızdık", Qadam Bas.
Following last year's administrative redistricting, Aktobe Region became the largest in the country. Direct daily flights connect Aktobe with both Almaty and Astana, making travel here straightforward.
Beyond being famous for the finest chocolate-covered zhent, Aktobe is home to two prominent cultural institutions: the Akhtanov Drama Theatre and the Alaqai Puppet Theatre.
The Akhtanov Drama Theatre stands as the sole drama venue for the entire expanse of the region. It houses two distinct troupes—Kazakh and Russian—who share the main stage on an alternating schedule. The primary draw for my trip, however, was an innovative experimental initiative operating within this state institution: project Tekemet. Formed by the theatre's artistic director, Meyram Khabibullin, Tekemet is an energetic collective of young actors and musicians.
Over its first year, Tekemet has built a remarkably diverse portfolio. Their theatrical roster includes the immersive production "Khanshaiym" and the photographic performance "Ūnsızdık", with a new play, "Äiel", currently in preparation. Their creative footprint extends beyond the stage to independent films, musical projects, and music videos.
A key feature of the institution is hosting the Balausa International Festival of Experimental Theatre—the only festival of its kind in Kazakhstan—which has been based at the Akhtanov Theatre for six years.
Quote: "Theatre as a whole is undergoing a transformation, and these changes are for the better. I believe a new wave is rising right now, though it isn't us. In time, this wave will sweep across all of Kazakhstani theatre. Our generation is simply the wind creating that wave. The generation that follows us will have a clear, established path along which they will elevate Kazakh theatre."
— Meyram Khabibullin, Artistic Director of the Akhtanov Drama Theatre
What to watch: "Hamlet", "Ūnsızdık", Qadam Bas.
Zhezkazgan
Getting to Zhezkazgan proved to be a genuine challenge for me. Although flights operate from both Almaty and Astana almost every day, they are served by small aircraft, making it difficult to secure tickets even well in advance.
The Ulytau Region consists entirely of open steppe, where the flat horizon is visible from every angle. Historical monuments dating back to the era of Genghis Khan lie just a few dozen kilometers outside town, while Zhezkazgan itself is dotted with Kazakhmys corporate logos—a characteristic feature of any industrial single-industry city.
The local Kozhamkulov Kazakh Music and Drama Theatre celebrated its 50th anniversary last year. While it enjoyed national and international renown during the 1980s and 1990s, the venue fell into decline during the 2000s. Just over three years ago, young arts manager Doskhan Säken assumed leadership, restoring the company's belief in the theatre's potential.
Over the past few seasons, several guest directors have mounted productions here (Shaghywan Ümbetqalıev from Almaty, Meyram Khabibullin from Aktobe, and Azamat Nigmanov and Konstantin Deniskin from Moscow). The theatre's plays have resumed festival circuits, winning awards and drawing long ticket queues from eager local audiences.
A defining characteristic of this institution is that no other theatres exist within a 500-kilometer radius of the Kozhamkulov Theatre. Rather than fostering complacency, this isolation drives the leadership team to meticulously tailor their repertoire to match the community's evolving interests.
Quote: "We have ample room for experimentation. We test new ideas—some succeed, others don't. But a setback is still a result. It simply signals where we need to adjust and keep building. Every step forward is treated as a milestone for our theatre. There is no outside pressure on us, but rather an open platform to realize any artistic ambition."
— Doskhan Säken, Director of the Kozhamkulov Drama Theatre
What to watch: "Sen zhäne men", "Kökserik", "Ghashyqtar".
Getting to Zhezkazgan proved to be a genuine challenge for me. Although flights operate from both Almaty and Astana almost every day, they are served by small aircraft, making it difficult to secure tickets even well in advance.
The Ulytau Region consists entirely of open steppe, where the flat horizon is visible from every angle. Historical monuments dating back to the era of Genghis Khan lie just a few dozen kilometers outside town, while Zhezkazgan itself is dotted with Kazakhmys corporate logos—a characteristic feature of any industrial single-industry city.
The local Kozhamkulov Kazakh Music and Drama Theatre celebrated its 50th anniversary last year. While it enjoyed national and international renown during the 1980s and 1990s, the venue fell into decline during the 2000s. Just over three years ago, young arts manager Doskhan Säken assumed leadership, restoring the company's belief in the theatre's potential.
Over the past few seasons, several guest directors have mounted productions here (Shaghywan Ümbetqalıev from Almaty, Meyram Khabibullin from Aktobe, and Azamat Nigmanov and Konstantin Deniskin from Moscow). The theatre's plays have resumed festival circuits, winning awards and drawing long ticket queues from eager local audiences.
A defining characteristic of this institution is that no other theatres exist within a 500-kilometer radius of the Kozhamkulov Theatre. Rather than fostering complacency, this isolation drives the leadership team to meticulously tailor their repertoire to match the community's evolving interests.
Quote: "We have ample room for experimentation. We test new ideas—some succeed, others don't. But a setback is still a result. It simply signals where we need to adjust and keep building. Every step forward is treated as a milestone for our theatre. There is no outside pressure on us, but rather an open platform to realize any artistic ambition."
— Doskhan Säken, Director of the Kozhamkulov Drama Theatre
What to watch: "Sen zhäne men", "Kökserik", "Ghashyqtar".