First Kolsai

The First Kolsai Lake is the largest, most accessible, and most vibrant of the Kungey Alatau lake triad. This is where the main tourist infrastructure is concentrated: cozy restaurants with panoramic views, atmospheric glamping sites, boat and pedal boat rentals, and horseback rides. The bustling shores of First Kolsai, with its emerald waters and slender Tian Shan spruces, are perfect for those seeking vivid impressions and comfortable relaxation amidst majestic mountains.

The road from Almaty to Lower (First) Kolsai spans roughly 300 kilometers and takes about five hours. The route runs along an impeccably smooth toll highway, and the final stretch leading up to the national park's main parking area also features smooth, high-quality asphalt. The journey offers incredibly scenic views, making the drive an absolute pleasure.

You can spend the day at the First Lake to fully experience the comfort of this spot, catching a perfect mirror reflection of the mountains, coniferous forest, sky, and clouds on the water’s surface at 5:00 AM. Alternatively, you can head straight to the Second Lake to combine both experiences, as the first leg of the trail winds along the entire shoreline of First Kolsai, offering breathtaking views.

Second Kolsai

The trek from the First (Middle) Kolsai to the Second takes about 9 kilometers one way with a noticeable elevation gain from 1,800 to 2,200 meters above sea level. On average, the journey takes around three hours at a moderate pace. The trail is well-defined and does not require a guide; however, travelers will need good physical fitness, comfortable hiking boots, trekking poles, a supply of water, a nutritious snack, and a reliable raincoat—the weather in the gorge changes rapidly several times a day.

The entire hiking route is naturally divided into three key stages. The first section follows a comfortable trail along the entire shoreline of the First Lake, offering panoramic views of the emerald water surface from the height of the coastal cliffs.

The second section runs along the bed of a roaring mountain river with a gentle and manageable incline through the cool air of the Tian Shan. The third section is the steepest and most prolonged ascent, demanding endurance. The path consists of natural dirt ground, where the interwoven roots of ancient spruce trees form natural steps.

Be prepared for the fact that there is a single shared trail—both hikers and groups on horseback use it (up to a hundred horses pass through here daily). Mountain weather is unpredictable, and during frequent rains, the washed-out soil quickly turns into slippery mud, significantly complicating the ascent for both hikers and animals.

For those who wish to tackle the climb on horseback, local youths offer horseback escorting services. The ride takes between 2 and 3 hours one way, depending on the group's pace and trail conditions. Prices range from 20,000 to 50,000 KZT per person. The final cost depends on the group size, as horse rental and guide services are calculated separately. If you plan to spend the night at the Second Lake, the cost of the horse tour will increase by 1.5 to 2 times. In this case, it is crucial to agree well in advance with the guide on the exact time and location for your return pickup. The trail is very scenic, yet physically demanding for both riders and animals. Unaccustomed multi-hour mountain riding puts a noticeable strain on muscles and joints, making the route unrecommended for children. Local guides do not provide protective helmets, riding boots, or whips. If an extra level of safety and comfort is important to you, bring all equipment with you. The horse trail crosses the rushing mountain river several times. Pack your sleeping bags, tents, and personal belongings in waterproof dry bags, and ensure that bags and backpacks do not hang too low on the sides of the horse to prevent them from getting soaked during river crossings.

The Second Lake opens up before travelers with an unexpected scale—it is much larger than what one typically expects from an alpine lake at an altitude of 2,200 meters. To truly appreciate its shape and character, hike a bit further up the trail and walk a few kilometers along the shore: from here, the outlines of the lake resemble a heart framed by steep cliffs and dense coniferous forest.

Civilization is entirely absent here—there are no shops, guesthouses, or yurts along the shores. The only constant presence is the Border Guard Service, which monitors the surrounding area due to the proximity of the state border with Kyrgyzstan. Always carry your original ID card or passport (while electronic documents are officially valid in Kazakhstan, there is no cellular network or internet coverage at the lake).

On weekends, a tent city pops up along the shore, ranging from 10 to 50 tents. Evenings here are filled with a special high-altitude aesthetic: a unhurried dinner cooked on a camp stove, quiet guitar tunes, and an incredibly bright starry sky free from urban light pollution. Darkness falls early and swiftly into the gorge, but morning arrives with the first rays of the sun—the crisp mountain air and cool temperatures encourage an early start. Birds and wild animals inhabit the surrounding forests, a presence frequently warned about by the border guards. The main safety rule is not to stray far from the campsite alone, especially at dusk and during the night. Rainbow trout can be caught in the lake, but fishing without a permit from the administration of the "Kolsai Kolderi" National Park is prohibited. Permits can be acquired at the visitor center or the national park office in Saty village.

There are only basic wooden outhouses with minimal amenities at the Second Lake. Bring biodegradable wet wipes, hand sanitizer, and toilet paper.

Water from the river and the lake itself is unsafe to drink raw; it must be boiled or filtered using specialized camping water filters.

There are no trash bins or cleaning services at the Second Lake. All brought-in waste (including tin cans, hygiene products, and food leftovers) must be carried back out to the First Kolsai. Unfortunately, not everyone adheres to this rule, leaving some areas quite littered.

Lighting open campfires within the national park territory is strictly prohibited. For cooking food and boiling water, use only portable gas or liquid-fuel stoves.

The Second Lake sits at an altitude of 2,200 meters. Even if temperatures reach +30 °C in Almaty or near the First Lake during the day, nighttime temperatures near the water can drop to +2...+5 °C. For an overnight stay, you will need a sleeping bag with a comfort rating no higher than 0...-5 °C and a thick insulating sleeping pad.

In April, the high country still abides by winter rules: in the middle of spring, the lake greeted us with a fairly solid sheet of ice. Our companion, a Golden Retriever named Amur, found his main entertainment here—enthusiastically dashing across the ice field after wild ducks. As soon as the dog gave up ground and headed toward the shore, the birds would immediately return, teasing him and inviting him for another game of chase.

Third Upper Kolsai

The trek from the Second to the Third Lake covers about 6 kilometers one way with an elevation gain from 2,200 to 2,800 meters above sea level. This route is most commonly chosen by travelers who spent the night at the Second Lake: having restored their strength overnight, they hit the trail early in the morning.

The first portion of the journey passes along a high ridge directly above the Second Lake. Breathtaking views open up from here onto the vast emerald body of water squeezed between coniferous slopes. This trail is rightfully considered one of the most scenic and impressive in the entire region—it is worth hiking even just for the panorama alone.

Since Upper Kolsai sits right at the foot of the Kungey Alatau range, a border post of the Kazakh Border Guard Service is located here. No special visa or separate permit is required to access the Third Lake, but you must present your original identity documents (national ID card or passport). The border guards register tourists and ask them to leave their original documents at the post; you can pick them up on the way back.

The second part of the route proves far more demanding on endurance: the final three kilometers are a steep, relentless uphill climb. The trail repeatedly crosses small mountain streams and eventually leads to a river that must be forded. Before the river, you will face a choice: take off your shoes and wade through the burning cold water, or cross with your shoes on. However, many choose not to remove their shoes—by this point, boots are often already soaked from the numerous streams flowing right down the trail. And it only gets harder from here.

At this altitude, the weather is extremely unpredictable, with rain falling almost every day. Bring raincoats and a spare pair of dry socks. Cover tents, sleeping bags, and equipment with heavy-duty waterproof covers, even if the morning greeted you with clear skies and a hot sun. And be sure to bring trekking poles, though many surprisingly neglect them. Due to the moisture, the trails are almost always slippery; poles will be a huge help, saving your joints and making the descent back much easier.

It is also possible to ride a horse up to Upper Kolsai, but finding a guide for this leg of the route is more challenging. Not every local guide knows this trail well or agrees to lead animals along it: the climb to the Third Lake is significantly steeper and more dangerous for horses than the route to the Second. The cost of a ride to the Third Lake for two people can run 120,000 KZT or more one way. A reasonable compromise is a combined route: if the guides refuse to go all the way to the end, negotiate to ride on horseback up to the border post, and then tackle the final, most challenging three-kilometer climb on foot. The price in this case won't be much higher than the ride to the Second Lake.

Overnight stays at the Third Lake are usually not permitted. While there is no direct legal prohibition, it is mostly a matter of safety: at an altitude of around 2,800 meters, the weather changes in an instant, rains wash out the trail, and sudden drops in temperature make camping risky. Furthermore, encountering wildlife is easy here—guides run into wolves and foxes, border guards warn of bears, and on neighboring Lake Koyandy, we encountered a large wild boar.

And yet, our night spent at Upper Kolsai became the defining highlight of the trip. We found ourselves at the lake in complete solitude—it is precisely in such moments that a rare feeling of true oneness with wild nature is born.

The ultimate gift was a meadow of edelweiss—legendary high-altitude flowers that typically bloom here in July and August.

It is precisely at the Third Lake that a keen realization sets in: you have ventured truly deep into the mountains. In this isolated world, a simple cup of hot, strong coffee turns into a rare, incomparable luxury. But the true, ultimate luxury here is the profound, almost physical sense of absolute wilderness. A feeling that no words can convey—it can only be lived while standing on the shore of a lost alpine lake, surrounded by mountain meadows and silent Tian Shan spruces.