Подпишитесь на наши обновления
Kolsai, Koyandy, and Charyn: The Definitive Route of 2026
Until just a few years ago, Lake Kolsai remained a secluded, virtually untouched sanctuary. The construction of a paved road has brought thousands of visitors here, making the preservation of the lake’s fragile ecosystem and wild identity a matter of vital urgency. Yet, leaving the lively shores of the first lake behind, you will discover the serene waters of Koyandy and the ancient, sun-scorched cliffs of Charyn Canyon, which still echo with the untamed spirit of the steppe. This is a journey to the place where the pristine surface of wild lakes meets the accelerating pace of civilization at the very foot of the Tien Shan.
Heading into the Mountains: Logistics to Kolsai
To truly absorb the atmosphere of the mountain lakes, set out from Almaty before dawn. The route follows the smooth, toll-paid Kulja Highway, easily accessible to any standard vehicle. The essential rule before turning off the main thoroughfare is to fill your tank completely at Sinooil or Gaz Energy stations. Beyond this point, familiar corporate amenities give way to open expanses and unbranded gas stations.
Be sure to carry enough cash in Kazakhstani tenge: card terminals fail in many local establishments and hotels, and ATMs along the drive are a rare luxury.
While shops and eateries are sparse along the way, you can take a rewarding break in the village of Baiseit with its vibrant roadside market. Sizzling shashlik and piping-hot samsa are cooked right by the road, while Parvaz café is worth a pause for a hearty bowl of Uyghur lagman or manti.
As the Tien Shan mountains draw near, temperature shifts become increasingly pronounced. Mountain mornings greet travelers with a crisp chill even in the height of July—pack a fleece or a light jacket. By afternoon, the sun turns aggressive in open areas, particularly around Charyn Canyon, making a sun hat, sunglasses, and high-SPF sunscreen mandatory. Given the unpredictable nature of mountain rain, a rain jacket should also stay in your pack.
The village of Saty, located 10 kilometers from the lakes, has become the region's main hub of civilization. Here you will find budget guesthouses, local cafés, supermarkets, a pharmacy, and even basic tire repair shops. While mobile coverage works within the village, the digital world quickly yields to wild nature as you drive out.
At the entrance to the national park, an automated system scans your vehicle's license plate. The environmental fee is 3,027 tenge (payable in cash or via QR code). Be sure to save your receipt: it serves as your pass for Lake Koyandy, though this fee must be paid again separately at Charyn Canyon.
The closer your lodging is to Kolsai, the more dramatic the panoramas become. Accommodation options are diverse: ranging from traditional Kazakh yurts and wooden cabins to futuristic glamping domes and hotels (it is best to book them well in advance via Booking or Instagram).
Directly on the shore of the first lake sits Pana Unique Kolsay. It holds a very low rating on Booking due to issues with service, building conditions, and noisy neighbors paired with poor soundproofing, but it undeniably commands the finest view along the entire shoreline.
Once you arrive and drop off your bags, only the most essential task remains: order a hearty lunch of national cuisine and prepare to encounter the breathtaking lake.
To truly absorb the atmosphere of the mountain lakes, set out from Almaty before dawn. The route follows the smooth, toll-paid Kulja Highway, easily accessible to any standard vehicle. The essential rule before turning off the main thoroughfare is to fill your tank completely at Sinooil or Gaz Energy stations. Beyond this point, familiar corporate amenities give way to open expanses and unbranded gas stations.
Be sure to carry enough cash in Kazakhstani tenge: card terminals fail in many local establishments and hotels, and ATMs along the drive are a rare luxury.
While shops and eateries are sparse along the way, you can take a rewarding break in the village of Baiseit with its vibrant roadside market. Sizzling shashlik and piping-hot samsa are cooked right by the road, while Parvaz café is worth a pause for a hearty bowl of Uyghur lagman or manti.
As the Tien Shan mountains draw near, temperature shifts become increasingly pronounced. Mountain mornings greet travelers with a crisp chill even in the height of July—pack a fleece or a light jacket. By afternoon, the sun turns aggressive in open areas, particularly around Charyn Canyon, making a sun hat, sunglasses, and high-SPF sunscreen mandatory. Given the unpredictable nature of mountain rain, a rain jacket should also stay in your pack.
The village of Saty, located 10 kilometers from the lakes, has become the region's main hub of civilization. Here you will find budget guesthouses, local cafés, supermarkets, a pharmacy, and even basic tire repair shops. While mobile coverage works within the village, the digital world quickly yields to wild nature as you drive out.
At the entrance to the national park, an automated system scans your vehicle's license plate. The environmental fee is 3,027 tenge (payable in cash or via QR code). Be sure to save your receipt: it serves as your pass for Lake Koyandy, though this fee must be paid again separately at Charyn Canyon.
The closer your lodging is to Kolsai, the more dramatic the panoramas become. Accommodation options are diverse: ranging from traditional Kazakh yurts and wooden cabins to futuristic glamping domes and hotels (it is best to book them well in advance via Booking or Instagram).
Directly on the shore of the first lake sits Pana Unique Kolsay. It holds a very low rating on Booking due to issues with service, building conditions, and noisy neighbors paired with poor soundproofing, but it undeniably commands the finest view along the entire shoreline.
Once you arrive and drop off your bags, only the most essential task remains: order a hearty lunch of national cuisine and prepare to encounter the breathtaking lake.
Kolsai: Itineraries, Trails, and Early-Morning Magic
The primary draw of Kolsai is its vast sense of scale and quiet. Yet, the area offers activities for every pace—from relaxed lakeside strolls to demanding alpine treks.
Light Coastal Trek (Beginners & Families)
This trail skirts the lake toward its far shore, taking roughly an hour each way along a well-maintained path. Specialized footwear or trekking poles are unnecessary—standard comfortable sneakers are sufficient. It is an ideal walk for families, with ample space for a quiet picnic on the opposite bank.
Grand Trek to the Second Lake (Experienced Hikers)
A demanding mountain route spanning approximately 10 kilometers one way with significant elevation gain. Expect at least three hours of continuous hiking each way. Sturdy trekking boots, poles, a rain jacket, and sufficient water and snacks are mandatory. Due to the duration, the return journey often finishes in dusk—a headlamp is essential.
Horseback Expedition to the Second Lake
Rates range from 20,000 to 50,000 tenge per person (depending on group size and time of day; horse rental and guide services are calculated separately). The trail is scenic yet rugged—especially during or after frequent rainfalls. Multi-hour mountain riding can be physically taxing for beginners, making this route unsuitable for young children. Local guides do not supply helmets, riding boots, or crops; bring your own protective equipment if needed.
Short Horseback Walk
For those seeking a gentle equestrian experience without extreme terrain, short guided rides to a nearby cave are available locally.
Catamaran Rentals
Watercraft can be rented for 10,000 tenge per 40 minutes or 15,000 tenge per hour. While generally safe, remain attentive to weather conditions: sudden gusts of mountain wind can sweep across the water without warning and push you away from the shore.
Quiet Contemplation
To slow down entirely, take a seat right by the water's edge. The exceptional clarity of the lake allows you to observe trout and wild ducks moving calmly along the shore, completely unbothered by people.
Evening in the Mountains
Nightfall arrives swiftly in the mountains. Numerous cafés and restaurants serving hot tea and traditional dishes operate near the lake and in Saty village. Keep in mind that prices here are noticeably higher than in the city.
The Magic of Early Dawn (5:00 AM – 6:00 AM)
The most extraordinary moment at Kolsai unfolds at sunrise. Between 5:00 and 6:00 AM, the lake belongs entirely to you, transforming into a flawless mirror. There is no wind, the day's commotion has not yet begun, and only birdsong fills the air. It is the finest hour for photography and quiet walks, as the glassy surface holds an unbroken, crystal-clear reflection of the Tien Shan. Walking up from the shore to the panoramic restaurant terraces, you can watch the first golden rays break over mist-shrouded peaks with a hot cup of tea in hand.
The primary draw of Kolsai is its vast sense of scale and quiet. Yet, the area offers activities for every pace—from relaxed lakeside strolls to demanding alpine treks.
Light Coastal Trek (Beginners & Families)
This trail skirts the lake toward its far shore, taking roughly an hour each way along a well-maintained path. Specialized footwear or trekking poles are unnecessary—standard comfortable sneakers are sufficient. It is an ideal walk for families, with ample space for a quiet picnic on the opposite bank.
Grand Trek to the Second Lake (Experienced Hikers)
A demanding mountain route spanning approximately 10 kilometers one way with significant elevation gain. Expect at least three hours of continuous hiking each way. Sturdy trekking boots, poles, a rain jacket, and sufficient water and snacks are mandatory. Due to the duration, the return journey often finishes in dusk—a headlamp is essential.
Horseback Expedition to the Second Lake
Rates range from 20,000 to 50,000 tenge per person (depending on group size and time of day; horse rental and guide services are calculated separately). The trail is scenic yet rugged—especially during or after frequent rainfalls. Multi-hour mountain riding can be physically taxing for beginners, making this route unsuitable for young children. Local guides do not supply helmets, riding boots, or crops; bring your own protective equipment if needed.
Short Horseback Walk
For those seeking a gentle equestrian experience without extreme terrain, short guided rides to a nearby cave are available locally.
Catamaran Rentals
Watercraft can be rented for 10,000 tenge per 40 minutes or 15,000 tenge per hour. While generally safe, remain attentive to weather conditions: sudden gusts of mountain wind can sweep across the water without warning and push you away from the shore.
Quiet Contemplation
To slow down entirely, take a seat right by the water's edge. The exceptional clarity of the lake allows you to observe trout and wild ducks moving calmly along the shore, completely unbothered by people.
Evening in the Mountains
Nightfall arrives swiftly in the mountains. Numerous cafés and restaurants serving hot tea and traditional dishes operate near the lake and in Saty village. Keep in mind that prices here are noticeably higher than in the city.
The Magic of Early Dawn (5:00 AM – 6:00 AM)
The most extraordinary moment at Kolsai unfolds at sunrise. Between 5:00 and 6:00 AM, the lake belongs entirely to you, transforming into a flawless mirror. There is no wind, the day's commotion has not yet begun, and only birdsong fills the air. It is the finest hour for photography and quiet walks, as the glassy surface holds an unbroken, crystal-clear reflection of the Tien Shan. Walking up from the shore to the panoramic restaurant terraces, you can watch the first golden rays break over mist-shrouded peaks with a hot cup of tea in hand.
Lake Koyandy: Quiet Waters, a Sunken Forest, and Encounters with the Wild
Lake Koyandy is situated just ten kilometers from the village of Saty. The access road was recently fully repaved, making the drive smooth and straightforward. There are no hotels at the lake itself; for now, the infrastructure is limited to a few local cafés and food stalls, though the site is developing rapidly.
From the main parking lot, three distinct paths lead toward the water. However, local transport is generally unnecessary: the walk is gentle, exceptionally pleasant, and takes no more than 20 to 40 minutes.
A loop route is highly recommended: ascend to the lake via the main trail, explore the shoreline, and return along the upper forest path. The climb is gentle, and the pine-scented corridor above the ledge is a highlight in itself.
It was along this upper forest trail that we encountered a large wild boar. Encounters with wildlife are not uncommon in the mountains, and travelers should be prepared in advance.
What to do if you encounter a wild animal:
Lake Koyandy is situated just ten kilometers from the village of Saty. The access road was recently fully repaved, making the drive smooth and straightforward. There are no hotels at the lake itself; for now, the infrastructure is limited to a few local cafés and food stalls, though the site is developing rapidly.
From the main parking lot, three distinct paths lead toward the water. However, local transport is generally unnecessary: the walk is gentle, exceptionally pleasant, and takes no more than 20 to 40 minutes.
- Left Trail (Horseback): A guided horseback ride costs around 5,000 tenge one way.
- Central Trail (Pedestrian): The simplest and most comfortable route, winding gently along the riverbank. It is completely unchallenging and ideal for walking with children.
- Right Trail (4x4s & Mountain Hikers): A dirt track well-suited for foot travel if you enjoy ascending through dense pine woods. Along the way, it is worth stopping by a small mountain tarn to see the wild ducks.
A loop route is highly recommended: ascend to the lake via the main trail, explore the shoreline, and return along the upper forest path. The climb is gentle, and the pine-scented corridor above the ledge is a highlight in itself.
It was along this upper forest trail that we encountered a large wild boar. Encounters with wildlife are not uncommon in the mountains, and travelers should be prepared in advance.
What to do if you encounter a wild animal:
- Stay calm and avoid screaming: Loud noises and abrupt movements are perceived as threats or provocations.
- Maintain composure: Speak in a calm, steady tone and slowly back away—never turn your back on the animal or attempt to run.
- Keep your distance: Resist the urge to move closer for a photo or offer food.
- Provide space: Ensure the animal has a clear escape route; in the vast majority of cases, it will simply move away on its own.
Charyn Canyon: Ancient Castles of Clay and Wind
From Lake Koyandy, Charyn Canyon is approximately 100 kilometers away along a well-paved highway—a drive of no more than ninety minutes.
During the day, the canyon endures scorching heat, but around 4:00 to 5:00 PM, both the intense temperature and the main wave of tour buses begin to subside. This marks the ideal time to visit: the setting sun illuminates the rock faces, casting long shadows and revealing the full depth and richness of the canyon’s palette.
Charyn presents one of those landscapes that feels hard to reconcile with typical impressions of Kazakh nature. The canyon drops dozens of meters below the surface, while reddish and ochre walls, carved by wind and water over millions of years, take on extraordinarily surreal forms.
The primary classic route runs along the canyon floor—through the Valley of Castles—straight to the rushing Charyn River and back. The path is roughly 2.5 kilometers one way, taking about an hour to an hour and a half at a relaxed pace. The trail is safe and well-suited for families with children. However, there is no shade along the entire route, making comfortable shoes, hats, and an ample supply of drinking water essential—there are no shops or freshwater springs at the bottom.
For children, the walk naturally turns into an engaging game: searching for shapes in the rock silhouettes and imagining what they resemble, from ancient fortresses and towers to mythical beasts. If you feel tired on the return leg, a local shuttle minibus runs regularly from the river back up to the top parking area. A two-ways ride costs 1,800 tenge. You can pay for round-trip transport at the station near the river. During peak hours, staff distribute numbered queue tickets to ensure boarding remains orderly.
It takes only a single escape from the city rhythm to the sunrises of Kolsai and the twilight cliffs of Charyn to fall deeply in love with this region. This two-day journey leaves behind far more than just hundreds of rare photographs—it delivers a profound sense of scale and absolute quiet.
Safe travels and happy adventures!
From Lake Koyandy, Charyn Canyon is approximately 100 kilometers away along a well-paved highway—a drive of no more than ninety minutes.
During the day, the canyon endures scorching heat, but around 4:00 to 5:00 PM, both the intense temperature and the main wave of tour buses begin to subside. This marks the ideal time to visit: the setting sun illuminates the rock faces, casting long shadows and revealing the full depth and richness of the canyon’s palette.
Charyn presents one of those landscapes that feels hard to reconcile with typical impressions of Kazakh nature. The canyon drops dozens of meters below the surface, while reddish and ochre walls, carved by wind and water over millions of years, take on extraordinarily surreal forms.
The primary classic route runs along the canyon floor—through the Valley of Castles—straight to the rushing Charyn River and back. The path is roughly 2.5 kilometers one way, taking about an hour to an hour and a half at a relaxed pace. The trail is safe and well-suited for families with children. However, there is no shade along the entire route, making comfortable shoes, hats, and an ample supply of drinking water essential—there are no shops or freshwater springs at the bottom.
For children, the walk naturally turns into an engaging game: searching for shapes in the rock silhouettes and imagining what they resemble, from ancient fortresses and towers to mythical beasts. If you feel tired on the return leg, a local shuttle minibus runs regularly from the river back up to the top parking area. A two-ways ride costs 1,800 tenge. You can pay for round-trip transport at the station near the river. During peak hours, staff distribute numbered queue tickets to ensure boarding remains orderly.
It takes only a single escape from the city rhythm to the sunrises of Kolsai and the twilight cliffs of Charyn to fall deeply in love with this region. This two-day journey leaves behind far more than just hundreds of rare photographs—it delivers a profound sense of scale and absolute quiet.
Safe travels and happy adventures!
